What are the Cracks in the Basement Filled With?

Cracks in poured foundations can be repaired by low-pressure injection of an epoxy or polyurethane foam material. Learn how to identify serious vs insignificant cracks & how to repair them.

What are the Cracks in the Basement Filled With?

Cracks in poured foundations can be repaired by injecting a low-pressure epoxy or polyurethane foam material. For repairing cracks in concrete floors, there are certain epoxy and polyurea materials that are suitable for such slab repairs. Almost every basement I've seen has some cracks in the walls and floors. Most of the time, these cracks are small and stable, and only need to be filled in to prevent water and radon gas infiltration.

Occasionally, cracks in the basement can be a sign of a slowly changing and failing base, but this is not a common situation. So how do you know if a crack in the basement is serious or insignificant? And, more importantly, what should be done when you find cracks in the basement, especially when you have plans to finish the space? More than just an injection is what I want to explain here. Cracks wider than a hairline can be filled with polyurethane, silicone or latex putty for concrete. Use a caulking gun to force the putty into the crack along its entire length.

This type of putty is effective because it fills the entire space of the crack and allows expansion and contraction of the foundation during extreme weather changes. If it contracts inside the crack and does not fill the entire depth of the crack, apply it again. Small cracks in the basement floor are usually caused by shrinkage as the concrete dries, which separates the concrete. Repairing a foundation crack in this width range is a simple DIY project that involves filling the crack with concrete compatible putty, such as GE's Silicone Putty II for Concrete and Masonry (available on Amazon).

Within a year after construction, fine cracks (about the width of a sewing thread) commonly appear on the inside of basement walls, most often near windows and doors or in the corners of the basement. It is true that some foundation materials, particularly brick and concrete, are more prone to cracking than others. Hydraulic cement used for crack repair is a waterproof cement product that is sold dry and mixed with water on-site to prepare a grout that is painted (or troweled) over a crack in a foundation wall or, in some cases (DryLok or UGL foundation wall sealants) that is painted over the wall surface in a mixture of paint. Use of polyurea as a filler for control joints or crack sealant in concrete slabs (polyurethane foam injection method).

Take a look at CONCRETE SHRINKAGE CRACKS to convince yourself that this is just that and not a slab settlement. This cracking pattern could be due to iron sulfide pyrrhotite cracking damage from inclusions in the original concrete when mixed and laid. Like fine cracks, these slightly wider cracks are probably caused by shrinkage and are not an indication of a serious problem at the base. An advantage of using polyurea or polyurethane as a crack sealant is that its flexibility will adapt to slight seasonal or temperature-related movement that could otherwise cause new cracks in an epoxy-repaired structure or reopening of cracks repaired with mortar repair or mortar concrete.

When a foundation settles, the concrete slab can crack and part of it that is less supported sinks into the depression. Carson Dunlop Associates sketch shows three common methods used to seal cracks in masonry walls to stop foundation leaks. However, there is always a risk that this repair will re-crack due to product shrinkage or even due to slight movements in the structure due to sedimentation, earth pressures or frost, or thermal changes. The first step is to seal the surface of the crack and hold injection ports approximately every 18th along its length using two-part epoxy resin. This type of repair runs no risk of re-cracking due to product shrinkage or even slight movements in the structure due to sedimentation, earth pressures or frost, or thermal changes.

The first step is to seal the surface of the crack and hold injection ports approximately every 18th along its length using two-part epoxy resin.

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